Tip-Top

On a recent trip to Managua, I took one of our becados to a Hotel Training Institute where she applied for an intensive scholarship. In typical Nica fashion, we were told to arrive at 11AM, and then found out that the entry exam would not begin until three hours later. With time to spare in the middle of the day, there was one logical thought that crossed my mind: Lunch?

I left the destination up to our becado.

“You’re the one taking the exam. Where would you like to go?”

“Tip-Top,” she replied.

I politely obliged.

For those (or all) of you who don’t know, Tip-Top is a fast-food fried chicken chain located throughout Nicaragua – a genius idea considering the entire population adheres to a fried-only diet. To draw a better parallel - Tip-Top is a Nicaraguan version of our beloved Kentucky Fried Chicken. It’s fast…it’s cheap…it’s finger-lickin good.

As we entered the restaurant and scrolled through the menu, a series of "peculiarities" suggested that our becado had never ordered at a restaurant before. Suggestion numero uno entailed our becado picking the cheapest meal on the menu, to which the waitress quickly pointed out: That’s the child’s meal. Order changed to the adult size.

Suggestion numero dos took place when our server brought out the food, and our becado stared at it as if it was a piece of art. I wasn’t sure if she was overwhelmed by the portion (two pieces of fried chicken, french fries, cole slaw, and a roll), or was simply relishing this moment.

Suggestion numero tres occurred when our becado finally picked up the utensils, but was reluctant to dive in. Instead, she poked at the chicken, as if checking to see whether it was dead or alive.

Once our becado took the first bite, her delight indicated that she’d be going the distance. Still, her demeanor piqued my curiosity.

“How is it?” I asked.

“Very good, thank you.”

“Have you ever eaten here before?

“Once, when I was little.”

“What do you usually eat during the day?”

“Well. In the morning I eat gallo pinto (fried rice and beans). And for lunch I usually eat plain white rice with some cooked beans. I usually don’t eat dinner. Only my Mom and Dad do.”

Monologue: I have lived in Nicaragua long enough and met enough people to recognize and, on some level, understand the economically-driven dietary limitations. When the price for a pound of rice and beans increased by twenty cents in 2008, for example, food became tight. I read about the rations, and heard about the hunger. Ten cents here, ten cents there – think what you want but it all adds up.

From my lens Tip-Top is fast food. The cheap stuff. Nothing but fattiness. Too lazy to make dinner. Too greasy. Too salty. A roll on the belly. “Cheating” on a healthy diet. A reward for a tough day.

For our becado, however, Tip-Top was a dream. A meal on the town. A meal that did not resemble rice. A meal that did not resemble beans. A meal where someone waited on her. A meal that was paid for by someone else. A meal that contained a piece of bread. A meal that contained a piece of meat. A meal that sparked a smile forever tattooed into my brain...

A reward for many tough days.